Technical Tip for V-12 Owners

 It appears that the rope seal used for the rear main of the '68-78 Ford 460 cubic inch engine is the answer to your leaking problems. This seal is a rope design that is impregnated with graphite. What makes this seal workable for the V-12 is that it is flexible and longer than the Jaguar seal which allows the seal to be pulled around the seal cavity and extends beyond the block parting surface enabling it to be cut off flush at the parting surface.

 Before I go into details on how to perform this instalation, I would like to point out the seal kit is available from any NAPA automotive supply under their part number JV-730. The seal removal and installation tool kit is called "Sneaky Pete" (manufactured by the Lisle Co. P/N 2700) and is available through Pep Boys Automotive Super Centers throughout the United States, and may be available in Europe as well.

The following items will be needed to accomplish this task:

  1. NAPA Rope Oil Seal Kit P/N JV-730 or any rope seal kit for 68-78 Ford 460 Cu. In. Engine.
  2. Two oil cooler water outlet gaskets
  3. Two oil pan gaskets (Rt. & Lt)
  4. Four O-rings for oil cooler tubes
  5. Oil Filter and Housing Gasket
  6. Marston Hylosil R.T.V. Silcon compound Ivory 101; Jaguar P.N JLM-9710/V
  7. NAPA (or equiv.) aviation No. 3 Gasket cement
  8. Grease -- Chassis
  9. 12 Quarts Engine Oil
  10. Antifreeze--2 Gallons
  11. Bars Leak Coolant System Sealant

The following is the technical description of changing the rear oil seal on the V-12 E-Type, which also applies to any Jaguar V-12 Engine.

 NOTE: Other than what is necessary to remove to gain access to the oil pan, all V-12's will be the same.
 
 

  1. Place car on jack stands high enough to enable oil pan to clear bottom of car.
  2. Drain the radiator of all water/antifreeze (sump drain is on bottom of radiator facing engine.)
  3. Drain engine oil.
  4. Remove exhaust pipes at exhaust headers and remove complete system and set aside.
  5. Remove the two cross bars on the underside of the car--the forward bar is accessible under the car. The aft bar can only be removed by removing the 1/2" bolts on each side of the tunnel inside the car (under tunnel carpeting)>
  6. Remove the right and left water hoses and heater hose from the oil cooler along with the aluminum elbows on the cooler.
  7. Remove the dust cover on the loser transmission bell housing (4) 1/4" bolts and set aside.
  8. Next remove all the 5/16 bolts (cap screws) securing the oil pan to the block. Note position of the longer bolts that hold the clips.
  9. Gently lower the oil pan stright down and set aside.
    Note: oil will be dripping from the crankshaft so you might wish to clean the pan and sealing surfaces while the engine is draining.
     


  10. Remove the four 3/8" nuts (illus. 67) and one of the two 1/2" nuts (illus. 68) holding the main bearing casting (illus. 80). Hold casting (illus. 80) in place to prevent falling as the last nut is removed.
  11. Remove casting (illus. 80) and set aside. Discard the two rubber oil seals (illus. 76) on sides of casting.
  12. Using the "Sneaky Pete" tool kit, carefully screw the extractor (cork screw) into the upper seal on the left side (facing forward). Pull on the extractor to remove the seal. If the seal will not move, have a helper tap on the starter to assist in the removal. The seal should come out as the crankshaft rototes. Note: Remove the coil wire before attempting to rotate crankshaft with the starter.
  13. Install the seal "Sneaky Pete" puller clip on the puller wire and gently slide wire around the crankshaft upper seal cavity (over crankshaft).
  14. Insert one end of the new seal into the installer clip. Reshape the end of the seal and gently pull into the seal cavity. Apply tension on the puller wire and as a helper taps the starter, pull the new seal into position until the seal ends extend past the parting surface of the crankcase approximately one half inch or more.
  15. Using a pair of end cutters (dykes) snip off the loose ends of the seal.
  16. Using a blunt tool (or round steel rod 5/16" to 3/8" diameter) gently press the loose ends into the seal cavity flush with the casting making sure that none of the seal protrudes past the parting surface.
  17. Remove the old lower half seal (illus. 77) from the lower main bearing casting (illus. 80) and discard seal.
  18. Carefully remove the rear bearing insert from the casting (illus. 80) and set aside fro reinstallation.
  19. Using lacquer thinner, clean the seal cavity removing all evidence of the old seal material.
  20. Using "super-glue" or any cyanacrylic adhesive, lay a small film of glue into the seal cavity.
  21. Carefully place the new seal into the cavity (groove) and press firmly down into the groove.
  22. Using a Jaguar service tool (illus. 79) P/N JD-17b, pre-size the lower seal into the casting. Note: If you do not have the Jaguar tool, you can use a large socket to size the seal.
  23. Trim the excess seal close to the parting surface. Press the ends as flat as possible flush with the parting surface.
  24. Reinstall the bearing insert into the casting (illus. 80) and reinstall on the engine over the crankshaft. Install the two main 1/2" nuts and torque to 62.5 lb.ft.
  25. Remove the nuts installed in step 24 and remove the bearing casting. (illus. 80).
  26. Inspect both the upper and lower parting surface to insure that no part of the rope seal Material has been caught between the halfs. If you see any part of the seal or threads showing, be sure to trim them off.
  27. Clean the vertical sealing surfaces of the crank case and sealing grooves on the side of the casting with lacquer thinner (or equivalent).
  28. Using "Marston" Hylosil R.T.V. (ivory 101) Jaguar P/N JLM-9710/V, apply a bead of the sealant into the grooves on each side of the casing (illus. 80) along with the recess at the top of the casting.
  29. Apply a film of grease on the seal and liberally oil the bearing insert and install into the crankcase (cylinder block) with the two 1/2" nuts (illus. 68) and four 3/8" nuts (illus 67) and washers.
  30. Torque the 1/2" nuts to 62.5 lb.ft. and the 3/8" nuts to 27.5 lb.ft.
  31. Using the tube of Hylosil, press tightly against the casting side grooves and squeeze the Hylosil into the grooves until it extrudes out the top of the casting. This can be seen with a light direted to the top of the casting parting surface.
  32. Clean off the excess fHylosil. Note: A small amount of Hylosil remaining will not harm anything.
  33. Verify/clean the gasket sealing surface for the oil pan as well as oil pan gasket sealing surface.
  34. Install new O-ring seals in the oil transfer tubes at the oil cooler. Liberally coat seal with oil.
  35. Install new pan gaskets on each side of the oil pan. (Ipersonally like to use Aviation #3 gasket cement to hold gaskets in place on the pan coating both sides of the gaskets. THis also prevents minor oil leaks.
  36. Carefully align oil tubes (at oil cooler) and raise oil pan into position securing with the 5/16" cap screws and lock washers.
  37. Reinstall dust shield on lower bell housing.
  38. Reinstall the two cross braces and exhaust system.
  39. Reinstall the aluminum elbows on the oil cooler with new gaskets.
  40. Reinstall the water hoses and tighten hose clamps.
  41. Install a new oil filter and gasket.
  42. Wervice engine with oil and antifreeze.
  43. Reinstall coil wire.
  44. Note: Allow the Hylosil to cure for 24 hours before starting engine and driving the car.
Good luck with your repair. I'm sure that once you get into it, you will find the seal replacement rathar stright forward and relatively easy.

Last Revision Dember 10, 1996

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