It can work well on flat surfaces but can cause deep scratches if used without precision. Steel wool and abrasive pads can also be used for roughing up the surface, although these do not work as well as sanding. When you apply polyurethane varnish, it can be done through brushing on, spraying, or wiping. The most frequently used technique would be spraying it on.
Because water based polyurethanes only contain 30-35% solids (vs. oil based contain 45-50%) solids, you will need to add more coats of water based poly. Water based poly tends to cost more than oil based poly. And, when you add in an extra 1-2 coats, your cost will increase further. Among water based polyurethanes, most experts agree that Bona is the best brand, and specifically Bona Traffic line. This product definitely costs extra, but if you are going to use a waterborne polyurethane, Bona is the way to go. Water based polyurethane doesn’t smell as bad.
Oil Based Vs Water Based Polyurethane
I read every comment on this thread and the thought of re-staining or using mineral spirits to strip the stain off and start over were daunting. Somewhere in the course of the thread I read that minwax vs varathane Clorox wipes (the yellow/orange) version would help. After trying the “re-apply stain, let it sit, then re-wipe” to a 4′ square I thought there is no way I can do this entire floor that way.
— jennifer (@jenn1662) August 15, 2013
Also, is there a type of stain that you recommend that soaks into the wood versus sitting on top and being more likely to chip/peel? I know many people who have run into this problem as well. Now if you decide to switch to oil-based poly, you’ll probably be fine just putting it over top of the cured lacquer finish. Just keep in mind any time you coat one type of finish over another, you do increase your chances of having problems. Also whichever one I use, will I have to sand or steel wool between coats? This may pose a problem being a large surface area and all, and having the rough side up, for effect.
How To Whitewash Stain Using Minwax White Wash Pickling
Fortunately, it only takes 2 to 3 hours for each application to dry. Bona flows and levels exceptionally well. As a result, treated floors have excellent build and clarity. This Bona floor treatment is available in gloss, semi-gloss, and satin.
coat of the Outdoor Water Based Diamond Spar Varathane on. I thought it was dry so went over it with steelwool and now noticed in some of the groves it is a bit ticky. I want to get this done but want it to look nice. Spraying will get the finish on very quickly. Normally I don’t like to use HVLP with oil-based finishes, especially on vertical surfaces, but if you have a lot of area to cover, its probably your best bet. If you don’t want to buy one, you should see about renting one somewhere or finding a local woodworker that can lend a hand.
I googled and found all kinds of complicated fixes. Your suggestion to apply another coat of stain and wipe off seems to be doing the trick. Knowing how many coats of polyurethane to apply is essential for achieving a result that really works well. For proper protection of the underlying wood, multiple coats are required. Oil-based finishes usually require fewer layers than water-based versions.
And when applied in a thick coat, it takes even longer. Add a film finish on top of that uncured surface, and you are looking at a sticky mess for quite some time. The oil under the finish will not let the top coat cure properly.
I then wiped the table off with a dry paper towel. I let it dry a couple more hours and the stickiness was gone. I sanded the underside of a mahogany drop leaf table. Re-stained and to keep the mahogany from bleeding through, I applied a sealer after the stain had dried. I was trying to avoid the bleed through from ruining my final poly finish.
So just to confirm, I can use the spray lacquer first, then use Helmsman brush coat on top? Something that dries quickly on the surface is a good choice and lacquer might even be a better choice than the Helmsman. Even though the lacquer isn’t outdoor-friendly, the coat you plan on putting on top of it is.
These polycrylics and polyurethanes cure to a super hard finish and protect against grease, dirt, and stains. Also, a poly topcoat has a more forgiving cleaning process. Once fully cured, ‘regular’ cleaning products can be used unlike waxed surfaces. For waxed pieces, a slightly damp cloth is recommended for cleaning – and depending on use, reapplication of the wax may be required a few years down the road. I refinished by picnic table and benches recently, and put it back on my patio this morning. This afternoon it rained, and now this evening I noticed there are a bunch of light spots all over the top surfaces.
Apply additional layers to increase the depth of the wood color. Clean the brushes, rags, and stirring sticks with mineral spirits to ensure safety. Minwax PolyShades doesn’t require heavy sanding before or in-between coats. However, a light amount of it is recommended to press down the coats and ensure an evenness that doesn’t lead to the development of streaks.
For ideal results, you should use about three or four coats. You will also have to wait quite some time between coats, as this polyurethane takes longer to dry. No matter how many coats of polyurethane you apply, it will always be quite a time-consuming process when using an oil-based finish. You can follow a general method of applying polycrylic over paint by first clearing the surface from dust and debris, and then sanding it with sandpaper. Remove the dust after sanding and use a thin layer of polycrylic with brush or polycrylic spray paint. After it has dried and cured, sand it and apply two more layers.
600 grit is ok for matte finishes, but I prefer to go a little higher when sanding a final coat. I like using 2000 grit paper or better yet, pads. The ones I get are rather expensive , so you might be better off just buying the highest grit paper you can find. Automotive stores should carry 1000 and 2000 grit. The super fine grit has a way of smoothing the surface without creating highly visible scratches. And if you have a satin finish, you definitely won’t notice them.
Using A Water
So just test a small area to see what happens to the haze when some varnish is added to the surface. If you don’t see an improvement, quickly wipe it off so it doesn’t dry on the surface. You should have no problem topcoating the Helmsman with some other matte oil-based varnish.
Also, if you sand too aggressively trying to flatten everything out, you may accidentally cut through the top layer of finish. If you do, you’ll create what is known as witness lines where the bottom layer shows through. As for coloring the Helmsman, it can be done using dyes that are soluble in oil-based finishes. But to tell you the truth, I don’t really like adding color to oil finishes. In my opinion, you get the best results when toning with fast drying finishes like shellac and lacquer.
Is Flooring Luster Measured?
If you just want a cosmetic fix, go with plaster or bondo. It will degrade when exposed to UVB light rays! But it takes a REALLY long time to break down. Polyurethane is a substance that can either be water-based or oil-based. Oil-based polyurethane has been around for longer, and it is a form of alkyd varnish which is combined with polyurethane resin. Any chance you remember your process for the classic gray over provincial?
The sculpture is outside and got rained on. The varnish started to peel but only happened on one color and on one part. My question is why did it happen and how can I fix the peeling. And since the finish is certainly cured at this point, it isn’t all that critical what you put over it. But keep in mind that baseboards are likely to contain lots of residual cleaning products and possible wax.
It is offered in a satin or gloss finish, but its color options are fairly limited. If your needs are simple and urgent, Fabulon is the way to go. I’m getting ready to seal my oak floors and I’ve been researching products also. I was seriously considering the polyurethane because of the fast drying time. We just don’t have time for the long curing time of the other products. Prep- if you sand wood, the grit that you finish at will dramatically change how much stain is absorbed.
- You can get adequate protection from brush-on polyurethane with two coats.
- I have done quite a bit of refinishing and have never had this happen before.
- I did thin it a little this time however just to give myself a little more open time since it was so hot outside.
- This product is ideal if you want to improve the appearance of your home and keep your wooden surfaces or furnishings protected for longer periods.
- However, there are also plenty of other polyurethane finishes that are more specifically designed for spraying.
- So try 5 percent or so at first and see how this works.
- One isn’t necessarily more durable than the next.
- Waving it around will result in uneven waves and arcs forming instead of a straight line.
- Synthetic bristle brushes, foam brushes, and lambswool applicators are all suitable options for interior wood surfaces.
- (I applied the stain with a rag– which I prefer to a brush.) I didn’t stop to look for any advice online.
- Apparently she tried the other kind and it dissolved part of the clay, or made it lose shape, and become sticky and, to quote her, “Gross”.
- Just an FYI, you want to make sure that your finish doesn’t redissolve the water colors.
I am urethaning some teak patio furniture and am wondering why the directions say to not apply in direct sunlight. I am using Varathane Diamond Spar Urethane. I personally don’t think its any better than Varathane Spar. I know people with Boats who have used both and they say they all last about the same. Its how you prepare and finish the wood that makes the finish last.